The Behringer FCB1010 Pedal Board

I have just purchased a new Behringer FCB1010 pedal board. Why? First, it does quite a bit of what I plan to do with my Line 6 pedal board. Second, it’s cheap.

I know that this is an old design, that it has been around for years (at least since 2003), and that there are replacements available. But again, it has the switches that I need, and it does quite a bit all by itself. It’s well built and easy to fix.

Now, you don’t really own a gadget until you hack it. I know that too. So guess what? First thing I did was unscrew everything and start tinkering!

Quick overview:

  • Lower right: six pedals linked to switches on a board. Very similar to my Line 6 pedal board. Similar switches. Similar circuit. Instead of using a resistor ladder to code the switch signals, this board uses direct connection. This means that each switch and each LED is linked to a pin on the connector. There is a 14 pin connector there, so 12 pins for the switches and LEDs, a + voltage and a ground wire.
  • Middle left: 2 expression pedal boards. These are very similar to the ones on the Line 6. A simple photo-transistor amplified signal linked to a gray-scale plastic insert moved by the pedal. The varying voltage is sent to an analog-to-digital converter on the main board.
  • Middle right: Upper pedal board. Same as the lower one.
  • Top right: Midi IN-OUT board. The IC (IC1: H11L1) on that board is a simple opto-isolator, required by the midi standard to prevent ground loops between equipment.
  • Top right, just a bit left: Switch board: used to connect to switchable amplifiers.
  • Top left: power connector, power switch and power transformer. Nothing special. I have not measured the power transformer’s output, but the presence of a 5 volt voltage regulator on the main board lets me believe that the voltage on the main board is 5 volts. Convenient. This is probably a 9 volt power supply.
  • Top middle: The main board. A bunch of transistors, ICs, relays and miscellaneous parts.
Main Board

Main Board

The main board is kind of divided as follows:

  • Left: Transistor and resistor arrays to drive the display digits segments.
  • Middle: Integrated Circuits for
    • IC 10,IC3,IC11: 74HC273D: D-Type octal flip flops. 2 are used to control the 7-segments LED digits and 1 is used to receive the pedal inputs.
    • IC12: C0832C: 8 bit analog/digital converter to transform the pedal analog signal to digital
    • IC2: T805: Voltage regulator, 5 Volts.
    • IC7: TL7705ACD: Power supply supervisor. Ensures clean power to main chip.
    • IC6: Atmel62- 24C16A: 2wire 16K EEPROM. Memory module. Usage unknown. Maybe a boot loader for the system.
    • IC8: Philips P80C32SBAA: Micro-controller. This is the brain of the pedal board.
    • IC4: 74HC04: Hex inverter. Various use throughout for logic signal inversion.
    • IC5: 74HC130: Multiplexer. Driving logic (clocks and clear) for ICS 3, 10 & 11 (74HC273)
    • IC9: 74HC373: D-Latch flip flops: Logic driver.
    • IC14: M5M5256FP-85 (or SR32K8 on schematics): 32K X 8bit RAM.
    • IC13: 27C256: 256K EEPROM. Of course, the biggest IC on the board is the firmware EEPROM on the right. Mine is version 2.501E, the last one available.

So, The main board is a micro-controller with some RAM, a firmware chip, some IC interface to drive the display, another IC to get inputs from the pedals. The main question: Can I replace this board with a home-brew Arduino board? You bet. Or “your” bet… I am confident that it can be done, but haven’t done it yet.

The project is to build the Arduino supported controller and make the code open source for all to share. There.

Main Board: Alternate view

Main Board: Alternate view

Main Board: Display

Main Board: Display

Transistor array

Transistor array to drive the display

Main Board: Close up on ICs

Main Board: Close up on ICs

Expression Pedal Board and Mechanism

Expression Pedal Board and Mechanism

Midi and Switch boards

Midi and Switch boards

 

 

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30 Responses to The Behringer FCB1010 Pedal Board

  1. Rob says:

    Hey,

    Part 39Z0YFJ, isn’t actually the part number. This is the lot number for the particular chip. In my research to replace this chip that I burned out, HC04 is the part of the part number. In talking with TI, it is not a complete part number. It is a Hex Inverter. Thanks for posting close up pics!

    Rob

    • rt says:

      Thanks for the comment. I have just received a complete schematic for the FCB1010 and I will update the post with new information.

  2. rt says:

    I have updated the text, describing each IC more precisely after careful study of the main board and the schematics of the complete system.
    I am now certain to be able to replace the main board with an Arduino. Keep checking the posts!

  3. hirose says:

    i have a fcb1010 but its 110/120volts…can you help me convert it to 220/240volts?
    can the built in transformer there inside be converted to 220/240v by just changing some wire connections? or do i need to get a new transformer? one option is to also have a converter connected on the plug.But I prefer making the unit as is.So which one will u suggest is better? thanks in advance, i will appreciate any advice or help u can give me.

    best regards
    hirose

    • rt says:

      The easiest way is probably to buy a new transformer with the proper voltage. But you could also solder the leads from a 9 volt wall wart transformer directly to the main board. Cut the yellow wires that go from the transformer to the main board close to the main board. Then solder (the best way) or otherwise join the two wires from your 9 volt transformer to the yellow wires sticking out of the main board. The diodes will even take care of the polarity, so you don’t have to worry about the + and – at all. The way the main boards does it, the 10 volts or so from the transformer goes through a diode rectifier, made from 4 diodes, then is goes in parallel with a condenser for filtering and finally through a 7805 5volt voltage controller integrated circuit. The final voltage that feeds ALL the electronics on the fcb1010 is 5 volts DC.

      • Nicolas says:

        Hi , does it has to be 9V AC or DC power?…ddoes it matter since it is going through the rectifyers anyway?…thanks!

        • rt says:

          The rectifier will accept AC or DC. The 7805 will easily process 7-12 volts DC. I think the specs are 7 to 20 volts, but they get really hot above 12. You need a heat sink above 12 volts, depending on current. So, the external power of pretty much any musical instrument setup are acceptable. Most of the time, it’s 9 volts, anyway.

  4. nick says:

    Thanks very much, thats what i needed to know. Cheers.

  5. Steve Miranda says:

    Hello, can anyone give me some details of the transformer? Mine does not seem to work and I think I may have to change it, but there are not details mentioned on the unit itself. I live in Dubai, UAE, and the voltage here is 240V.

    Thank you

    • rt says:

      Hello Steve,
      The transformer is a very standard 9 volt AC one. Anything from 9 to 12 volts will work to replace it (240 volts input in your case, of course). You could even replace it with a wall transformer (wall wart) DC and the circuit will be OK. You should be able to find a replacement anywhere.

  6. David Swann says:

    Hi, you have probably already sorted it but on mine the transformer has 2 primary windings on it so it can be used for 110-120 and 220-240 volts. the voltage selector is actually the fuse on the iec inlet.

    First, have a look inside at the transformer and see if it has 3 wires going between the transformer and the inlet. If so its almost certainly able to do both. You will want to follow the wiring and double check.

    Back to the fuse. Pull the fuse out and note the orientation. If you look inside you will notice 3 contacts. The contacts on the fuse are asymmetric so if you put it in one way the fuse connects 2 contacts, Presumably 1 outer winding and the tap in the middle and the other way both the outer taps.

    You will see a couple of arrows on the fuse holder and where it goes back in. Align them to match the voltage. You may need to change the fuse. The sticker on the back of mine says to use T50mA 250v. You probably have a 100mA fuse in there. I would change it as if it turns out that after all those checks your transformer doesn’t like 230v the fuse may save it!

    Hope this helps

    • rt says:

      Hello David,

      There is a second winding on the input side of my transformer too. While I can’t measure the internal turn ratio, I will test the transformer for that second winding when I get a chance.

      I have 115V versions of the FCB1010 (many of them, actually). I have included a picture of the Power Connector at http://practicalusage.com/pu/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/fcb1010-fuse-holder.jpg

      You might have a different fuse holder outside of North America. Mine only have one contact on each side and the fuse is T100-250V. The T stands for “Time-delay” and is used for slow-blow fuse. Usually permits double the rated current for a short while to prevent blowing it every time there is a brief power surge.

      So, my fuse and socket are very standard and while the fuse can be inserted in the holder either way, the fuse holder can only fit the socket one way. Mostly because a release mechanism holds it firmly in place with a little locking tab.

      I would also consider the ability to plug the fuse one way or the other as a … dangerous feature! So I can only let you do the test, with a good voltmeter

      Robert.

  7. David Swann says:

    Hi Robert,
    Yes, your inlet is different to mine. I was thinking that the reversible fuse wasn’t a great idea. I thought you’d have a T100 in yours so that tallies up. Im on 230v btw so I wont be reversing the fuse!
    You would think it dangerous but then how many computer power supplies and the like do you find with a 115/230 switch on the back? I’ve seen loads. What wasn’t great is that the labelling on the fuse was quite subtle so if you wernt expecting it, it could be easy to get it wrong.
    my fuse is measuring 18 ohms.
    the resistance between live and neutral on the power inlet terminals is
    539ohm on 230v mode
    212ohm on 115v mode

    i have 3 wires, blue black and red.
    it appears that 520 ohm between red and black
    194 ohm between blue and black.

    i think the black goes to neutral via the power switch and the fuse completes the circuit between live and either the red out winding or the blue tap.
    taking the fuse out and measuring on the direct contacts.

    You may find all you have to do is swap the red lead for the blue on on the iec inlet and do something safe with the blue lead. presumably whatever they had done with the red lead. probably attaching it to something not in the circuit for safe keeping.

    hope this helps

    Dave

  8. Akash says:

    Hey Rt,
    I have a small problem with the FCB 1010…
    The 2nd Switch is not working… I tried opening it… because i thought it might be the contact point between the switch and the button on the board but I was wrong!!!
    I believe it’s the button it self which is not working.
    Please advice on how can I get this fixed… and how to get the spare button…

    Your help on this will highly appreciated.

    Regards,

  9. David Frascone says:

    Nit: 27C256 is an EPROM, not EEPROM.

    Thanks so much, btw — I’m having issues making programming stick, and thanks to your dissection, I’ve found the eeprom, and ordered a new one to try to swap out!

  10. JAM says:

    HI,

    I got a problema with my FCB 1010 V2.2 EPROM.

    I can edit all the parameters an it works right up to I switch ON the device again because all parameters I edited before are missing and come to the default Factory values.

    I have replaced the ERPOM for another new one (UnO 4 KEMPER V1.2) but the problem keeps. I can edit parameters (pedals curve behaviour, swap rows…etc) and it Works right while the device is working with power supply. After I switch OFF/ON, the new parameters are lost once again and they return to the default Factory values.

    The device shows a VOLATIL memory behaviour. So, What can I do? could you help me?

    many thanks in advance!

    • rt says:

      The best place for FCB1010 help and questions is on the FCB1010 forum at http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/fcb1010/info
      You should also use software to program it. On a mac, i use iFCB form wabbit (http://www.wabbitwanch.com/iFCB.html).

      I rarely reprogram my FCBs since I use a computer to generate music. I also use micro-controllers to modify the Midi commands coming out of the FCB because I find them easier to program than the FCB1010!

    • untergeekDE says:

      My FCB started with the very same behaviour after installing an UnO upgrade. After downgrading to rule out software bugs, and exchanging some mails with Xavier, the clever guy behind the UnO firmware, I’ve concluded that it might be a defective IC6, the 24C16 EEPROM – which, by the way, is the place where your programming is stored while the power is off.

      As they are very cheap – around $1 – the risk is tolerable, but soldering SMD chips is not for the unexperienced. I’ll get back here if it works – in that case, find a reliable electronics repair guy and have him or her exchange the EEPROM for you

  11. cem says:

    This is great! Could you be able to share the original fcb schematic please?

  12. Mark says:

    Hi I’m looking for a replacement 5 pedal as the plastic surround has cracked so the spring pops the plastic seating part into the board. Any help in finding a part number or replacement would be gratefully appreciated.

    Many thanks

    Mark

    • rt says:

      I have not been able to find that part with my suppliers. Maybe Behringer can help. I use Superglue or Sugru to repair plastic parts.

  13. Martin says:

    I want to replace the expression pedals with external pedals with ordinary potmeter in them. I wonder if this is possible: I belive (but not sure) that the three wires to the opto reader is: Red – 5VDC (feeder for LED), one black for GND and one black for variable resistance, reading the Opto position.
    My idea would be to use the GND and the the other black wire and to connect to the potmeter. Do you think that would work?

    • rt says:

      Excellent idea! Let me look at the schematics and figure out an equivalent circuit. But it might just work.
      Back later…

      • Martin says:

        Hi RT,
        did you find the time to look at this? From what I understand, it should be fairly easy, but my challenge is to find the correct range for the pot, so I dont have to find the right pot by the trial/error method…
        Then again, I may be totally wrong.. 🙂

  14. Jake says:

    Anyone!

    That would be so amazing if you could figure out the required circuit.
    I am trying to use the FCB with the Uno4Kemper (as I did not purchase the “Kemper” footswitch )and the FCB is the only footswitch on the market right now that has bidirectional MIDI features in support. This would not only help me, but anyone who has purchased a kemper without their footswitch.

  15. LST says:

    Hi

    Could you tell me the part number or specs of original 2 digits 7 segments display?

    Thanks

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